The upkeep of your vehicle can be quite an expense - from initial purchase to insurance to maintenance. And sometimes we get the sinking feeling that every time we need a car repair, we’re going to get taken for a ride. (pardon the pun!) Actually there are some ways to make sure you don’t get a raw deal when dealing with a local body shop.
After you get recommendations for honest mechanics, call around to check out the prices for certain jobs. It’s always smart to get a second opinion.
How about some preventative medicine? Keep your gas tank filled. This will help you avoid the gas line freezing up in cold weather. Also, driving on “fumes” allows little pieces of dirt at the bottom of your gas tank to run through the fuel lines with the last drops of gas. This debris clogs up the fuel filter and can cause carburetor damage as well.
Sometimes a problem with your car’s electrical system results from a simple blown fuse. Check to see if you have any blown fuses before investing in a tow truck!
Keep track of how much oil your car uses. A sudden change in oil consumption means you need to see a technician.
Save your brakes by having your brake fluid changed every 30,000 miles.
Check your tire pressure once a month. This simple maintenance check can add up savings at the gas pump!
Stop and go traffic causes excess wear and tear on your vehicle. Go ahead and give your car a nice twenty minute ride at 55 mph on the highway every couple weeks if you “major” in short trips.
There are other ways to save money on car expenses. Let’s look at the insurance payments.
If you’ve budgeted for possible out-of-pocket expenses in case of a car accident, you might want to consider increasing your insurance deductible to $500. This will lower the cost of your insurance.
Talk to your insurance agent. If your car is as old as the hills, you might want to drop collision coverage to save money.
Car insurance companies offer a variety of discounts. Ask your agent if the company offers reductions for driver training courses, anti-lock brakes, car alarms, air bags, mature drivers, good students or maintaining a good driving record.
Before you purchase from a dealer, ask about the dealer's return policy, get it in writing and read it carefully. Dealers are not required by law to give used car buyers a three-day right to cancel.
Visit http://www.fueleconomy.gov to find cars that are fuel efficient.
Each 5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.10 per gallon for gas.
In most cases, using cruise control on the highway will save gas.
Replacing a clogged air filter can improve your car's gas mileage by as much as 10 percent. This isn’t going to cost you an arm or leg either.
Do your homework when buying a car from an auction. Many vehicles that have been damaged by floods and hurricanes are going on the market. These won’t last long – leaving you with a flood of bills. Be a little concerned if the carpet looks too new, and check carefully for signs of rust.
Carfax.com shares info on inspecting a used car to make sure you get the best deal.
If you use your car for business, keep track of miles traveled so that you can use this for a tax deduction. Get more info at irs.gov.
About the cost effective Car stereo and other electronics, you can take Eonon Car DVD player, Car Monitor and GPS into account.
When you consider all the ways you can save money on your current vehicle, you might be persuaded to put away the extra each month for a new car down the road!
2009年9月23日星期三
2009年9月21日星期一
Integrate your iPod Into Your Car Stereo?
The iPod has become a go-anywhere, so how to Integrate iPod Into Your Car Stereo? Installing an iPod into a car stereo can be easy or complicated depending on the system you currently have. There are many methods to get the iPod connected, and knowing about each can help you decide how you want to get the iPod blasting in your ride.
1. Install an FM transmitter for a fast and easy connection. Attach the FM transmitter to the headphone jack on the iPod and tune the stereo to the predetermined channel. This method fails to provide great sound but the simplicity makes it appealing to many.
2. Connect directly to the auxiliary ports on the back of the existing head unit with an RCA adapter. Run the wire from the back of the stereo to a place where you mount the iPod and enjoy a static-free connection without spending a lot of money.
3. Research the head unit you have and purchase an iPod dock that is compatible. Many manufacturers now provide an iPod dock that allows you to control the iPod using the head unit's interface. Displaying track names and navigating the music files on the iPod are common features of add-on solutions.
4. Consider purchasing a remote control expansion for your iPod to help you control the unit and remain safe while driving. Heads up displays can show track and title information, while more advanced head units can integrate with the car's steering wheel controls.
Please note: Check the package to make sure it is compatible with your iPod model and generation.
Eonon has some Car DVD player which enables you to connect iPod directlly to it by iPod cable, such as E1091, E0858, E1022, etc. You can also take a look! I'm now enjoying using with it!
1. Install an FM transmitter for a fast and easy connection. Attach the FM transmitter to the headphone jack on the iPod and tune the stereo to the predetermined channel. This method fails to provide great sound but the simplicity makes it appealing to many.
2. Connect directly to the auxiliary ports on the back of the existing head unit with an RCA adapter. Run the wire from the back of the stereo to a place where you mount the iPod and enjoy a static-free connection without spending a lot of money.
3. Research the head unit you have and purchase an iPod dock that is compatible. Many manufacturers now provide an iPod dock that allows you to control the iPod using the head unit's interface. Displaying track names and navigating the music files on the iPod are common features of add-on solutions.
4. Consider purchasing a remote control expansion for your iPod to help you control the unit and remain safe while driving. Heads up displays can show track and title information, while more advanced head units can integrate with the car's steering wheel controls.
Please note: Check the package to make sure it is compatible with your iPod model and generation.
Eonon has some Car DVD player which enables you to connect iPod directlly to it by iPod cable, such as E1091, E0858, E1022, etc. You can also take a look! I'm now enjoying using with it!
2009年9月17日星期四
How to Choose Car Stereo(Decks , Amplifiers, Speakers, Subwoofers)
Choosing a car stereo can be a complicated and difficult task, especially for individuals with little knowledge on the subject. This process requires extensive research in order to determine you are receiving the best deal possible. Before going to a car stereo dealer, you may want to review and understand all the components of a car stereo. This way, you can personally choose which components you would like for your car. The following is a list of the basic components of a car stereo:
1. Decks – Car stereos cannot function without a deck. A deck constitutes any piece of equipment ranging from cassette decks and CD players, Car DVD players like Eonon to MP3s and mini discs. The deck is considered the glue that holds the car stereo together. The deck controls the overall output of the sound and allows you to control the music being played. All car stereo decks have a minimum 4-channel output for your speakers. If you want more power than what your speakers alone can hold, you may want to consider purchasing an amplifier.
2. Amplifiers - Amplifiers provide the power needed to blast the music in your car. The more powerful your amplifier is, the louder the sound system is going to be. An amplifier can have anywhere from 1 to 7 channels. The number of channels in your amplifier is the number of speakers you can hookup in a series circuit.
3. Speakers - Speakers are where the sound from the stereo is emitted. Different types of speakers are designed to produce different frequencies. Higher frequencies provide the capacity for more sound and produce a higher level sound as well. The efficiency of the speakers is what will determine how far the sound will travel. If you want the sound to travel far, you will need speakers with a higher frequency.
4. Subwoofers - Every high-tech car stereo system should have a subwoofer. Subwoofers complete the sound by providing high efficiency of low frequencies, through the bass. In other words, the subwoofer is the piece of equipment which makes the car vibrate. A subwoofer needs to be enclosed in either a box or possibly the trunk of your vehicle. Keep this is mind when budgeting the cost of your stereo system.
Now that you know the basics of how everything operates, you can ask informed questions as to which components you should have in your car.
1. Decks – Car stereos cannot function without a deck. A deck constitutes any piece of equipment ranging from cassette decks and CD players, Car DVD players like Eonon to MP3s and mini discs. The deck is considered the glue that holds the car stereo together. The deck controls the overall output of the sound and allows you to control the music being played. All car stereo decks have a minimum 4-channel output for your speakers. If you want more power than what your speakers alone can hold, you may want to consider purchasing an amplifier.
2. Amplifiers - Amplifiers provide the power needed to blast the music in your car. The more powerful your amplifier is, the louder the sound system is going to be. An amplifier can have anywhere from 1 to 7 channels. The number of channels in your amplifier is the number of speakers you can hookup in a series circuit.
3. Speakers - Speakers are where the sound from the stereo is emitted. Different types of speakers are designed to produce different frequencies. Higher frequencies provide the capacity for more sound and produce a higher level sound as well. The efficiency of the speakers is what will determine how far the sound will travel. If you want the sound to travel far, you will need speakers with a higher frequency.
4. Subwoofers - Every high-tech car stereo system should have a subwoofer. Subwoofers complete the sound by providing high efficiency of low frequencies, through the bass. In other words, the subwoofer is the piece of equipment which makes the car vibrate. A subwoofer needs to be enclosed in either a box or possibly the trunk of your vehicle. Keep this is mind when budgeting the cost of your stereo system.
Now that you know the basics of how everything operates, you can ask informed questions as to which components you should have in your car.
2009年9月2日星期三
Guide of geting Car Head Units
Ideally, your head unit would be used to provide a signal to your amplifiers that is line level and you would not use its internal amplifiers (if any). They usually do not have the power and strength to drive speakers both loudly and cleanly. The line level signal is cleaner than the speaker level outputs on the head unit because it is does not go through the internal amplifiers in the head unit. That being said there are occasions where you would use the head unit's internal power. One situation is when you are on a budget and are building your system over time. The head unit can be used to drive speakers (but not subwoofers) until you can get an amp. The other situation is when you are building a system where the benefits of an amp are not important to you. Read my planning page for more details about what is right for you.
No head unit typically has more than about 60watts of total output power because more would require a real DC-DC power supply (which does not fit in a head unit easily). Using the head unit power can be a temporary solution until a separate amplifier can be purchased, just make sure you do not try to power any subwoofers or insensitive component sets with the head unit's built in power. According to Car Audio and Electronics magazine, most head units use the same chips for the internal amplifiers so they all produce about the same low power. The best they have measured is about 14watts into 4 channels at 1% distortion. Their power level at a better lower distortion figure (like 0.1%) is significantly lower.
Note about using factory head units: Many people ask me about using the factory head unit that came with their car with external aftermarket amps. Typically you cannot get a clean signal from the head unit because factory heads do not have line level (RCA) pre-amp outputs to drive an amp. You can use a speaker level to line level converter but the sound is still going through the factory head's internal amps. Some people are willing to sacrifice some sound quality in order to keep their factory head. Also, if your factory system uses an external amp you may be able to find an adapter so you can use an aftermarket amp instead.
Usability: Your head unit is the part of the car stereo that you interact with most so it is important to get one that "feels" good to you. Always look at a head unit in a store display and use it for awhile. Try to flip through radio stations and tracks on a CD to see if it is quick and easy. If you have problems with small buttons, imagine what it will be like when you are driving! Since many models in the same price range are similar in features and sound quality, usability is often the deciding factor between models.
Power: Even though I just said not to use the built-in power of a head unit I know sometimes it is necessary. Bear in mind that the power specifications given by most manufacturers for head units are not accurate. They often use terms like "music power" or "peak power" which have little real meaning because there is no standard definition of those terms. If the power is quoted in "RMS" terms then it is usually accurate. However, there is still one other place of misconception. Often manufacturers will quote power as "30watts x 4 RMS". The "RMS" seems to mean it is a true indication of power but they are implying that all 4 channels can produce 30watts rms AT THE SAME TIME. With a head unit, this is almost always not true. Because of the small power supplies in head units they can rarely output more than 15-60 watts TOTAL. This means that the power to each channel at maximum loading would only be 1/4 of that total. Some manufacturers are better than others about giving accurate specifications and a few models are available with sophisticated power supplies which have higher power output but they are VERY expensive. If you're paying less than $800 for a head unit (and most of us are!) then your head unit will not put out much power. I have written a more comprehensive explanation of power amplifier specs as well. Speakers which are not producing bass do not draw nearly as much power so you can get away with using the head unit to power them but use passive high pass crossovers (bass blockers) and they will play even louder and cleaner. Bear in mind that the distortion may be higher from the head unit than an external amp however.
Cassette vs. CD: This choice is mostly a matter of preference. If you do not have many cassettes then an in-dash CD player is probably right for you. If you need the capability to listen to cassettes and CDs then a cassette head unit with changer controls should be adequate. Be aware that many in-dash CD head units can control a CD changer as well so you can use both. An in-dash CD is convenient for changing discs quickly while on the road. Because of size of most CD changers they are usually mounted in the trunk or under the seats although there are some newer models which are small enough to fit in glove compartments. Under the seats or in the trunk are not easy places to get to while you're driving!
Theft Protection: Detachable faces are the most common theft prevention scheme in head units today. There are two flavors, fully detachable and partially detachable. With a fully detachable face all the controls on the front come off leaving behind a blank panel, whereas a partially detachable face leaves some features on the head unit but the head unit is still useless without the face. Fully detachable faces are larger and bulkier to carry around than partially detachable ones but leave nothing behind to be seen. Another option is Eclipse's ESN system. With these head units when you first apply power to them you must supply a CD which the unit remembers as the "reference" CD. Thereafter if the unit ever loses power you must insert the "reference" CD before it will work again. Only you know what the "reference CD" is so the head unit is useless to a thief. Eclipse also tracks the units they repair. More than once a stolen head unit was returned to them for service because it was not working. Upon verifying the head unit was stolen they can apprehend the thief as the person who returned the stolen head unit for service. I still wouldn't count on the thief to know that Eclipse does this though so I stick with a conventional fully detachable face. A new twist from Kenwood flips the face around when you turn off the power so the thief can't see the head unit. I think it would work even better if the face then went back into the head unit, giving the appearance that the unit is a detachable face head unit with its face removed.
Pre-amp outputs: These are must for any serious head unit. These outputs allow you to run an amplifier directly without need for any conversion. This is the cleanest output of the head unit. Some units have multiple outputs and sometimes ones that are crossed over. Look for the amount and type that you need for your system but keep in mind future expansion. One is sufficient but having two allow you fade, or adjust the levels of multiple amplifiers right from the head unit. Some head units now offer 4 volt outputs instead of the usual 1-2 volts. This can be very beneficial since cars have a lot of electrical noise in them. The 4 volt output is less susceptible to noise, however, you must be certain that the amplifier or crossover being connected to the output can handle 4 volts or you will not be able to use the extra voltage. If your head unit does not have pre-amp level (RCA type) outputs you can buy an adapter which will convert your speaker level outputs to line level. They range in price from $12 on up but since I have not used them I do not know how much difference there is among them. Another option is to use an amplifier that accepts speaker level signals directly but those are not as easy to find.
Other features: There are many other minor differences in features between head units. Choose the one that appeals to you most. Switch able illumination is nice if you want the head unit's display to match the other instrumentation in your car. Dolby Noise reduction and full logic tape controls are nice as well. Finally, a remote control can be useful or can be a waste depending on whether you use it. A remote control mounted in the steering wheel can be very convenient though. Some CD heads come with a buffer to minimize effects from bumps. This can be useful but in my experience if you mount the head unit securely it will not skip much anyway and using the anti-skip buffer can have a slight negative effect on sound quality because of the way the buffer is implemented.
If you wanna a get a great Car DVD player with good function, proper price and great service, come to check Eonon website, all about Car DVD player, Car Monitor and GPS: www.eonon.com. Good luck!
No head unit typically has more than about 60watts of total output power because more would require a real DC-DC power supply (which does not fit in a head unit easily). Using the head unit power can be a temporary solution until a separate amplifier can be purchased, just make sure you do not try to power any subwoofers or insensitive component sets with the head unit's built in power. According to Car Audio and Electronics magazine, most head units use the same chips for the internal amplifiers so they all produce about the same low power. The best they have measured is about 14watts into 4 channels at 1% distortion. Their power level at a better lower distortion figure (like 0.1%) is significantly lower.
Note about using factory head units: Many people ask me about using the factory head unit that came with their car with external aftermarket amps. Typically you cannot get a clean signal from the head unit because factory heads do not have line level (RCA) pre-amp outputs to drive an amp. You can use a speaker level to line level converter but the sound is still going through the factory head's internal amps. Some people are willing to sacrifice some sound quality in order to keep their factory head. Also, if your factory system uses an external amp you may be able to find an adapter so you can use an aftermarket amp instead.
Usability: Your head unit is the part of the car stereo that you interact with most so it is important to get one that "feels" good to you. Always look at a head unit in a store display and use it for awhile. Try to flip through radio stations and tracks on a CD to see if it is quick and easy. If you have problems with small buttons, imagine what it will be like when you are driving! Since many models in the same price range are similar in features and sound quality, usability is often the deciding factor between models.
Power: Even though I just said not to use the built-in power of a head unit I know sometimes it is necessary. Bear in mind that the power specifications given by most manufacturers for head units are not accurate. They often use terms like "music power" or "peak power" which have little real meaning because there is no standard definition of those terms. If the power is quoted in "RMS" terms then it is usually accurate. However, there is still one other place of misconception. Often manufacturers will quote power as "30watts x 4 RMS". The "RMS" seems to mean it is a true indication of power but they are implying that all 4 channels can produce 30watts rms AT THE SAME TIME. With a head unit, this is almost always not true. Because of the small power supplies in head units they can rarely output more than 15-60 watts TOTAL. This means that the power to each channel at maximum loading would only be 1/4 of that total. Some manufacturers are better than others about giving accurate specifications and a few models are available with sophisticated power supplies which have higher power output but they are VERY expensive. If you're paying less than $800 for a head unit (and most of us are!) then your head unit will not put out much power. I have written a more comprehensive explanation of power amplifier specs as well. Speakers which are not producing bass do not draw nearly as much power so you can get away with using the head unit to power them but use passive high pass crossovers (bass blockers) and they will play even louder and cleaner. Bear in mind that the distortion may be higher from the head unit than an external amp however.
Cassette vs. CD: This choice is mostly a matter of preference. If you do not have many cassettes then an in-dash CD player is probably right for you. If you need the capability to listen to cassettes and CDs then a cassette head unit with changer controls should be adequate. Be aware that many in-dash CD head units can control a CD changer as well so you can use both. An in-dash CD is convenient for changing discs quickly while on the road. Because of size of most CD changers they are usually mounted in the trunk or under the seats although there are some newer models which are small enough to fit in glove compartments. Under the seats or in the trunk are not easy places to get to while you're driving!
Theft Protection: Detachable faces are the most common theft prevention scheme in head units today. There are two flavors, fully detachable and partially detachable. With a fully detachable face all the controls on the front come off leaving behind a blank panel, whereas a partially detachable face leaves some features on the head unit but the head unit is still useless without the face. Fully detachable faces are larger and bulkier to carry around than partially detachable ones but leave nothing behind to be seen. Another option is Eclipse's ESN system. With these head units when you first apply power to them you must supply a CD which the unit remembers as the "reference" CD. Thereafter if the unit ever loses power you must insert the "reference" CD before it will work again. Only you know what the "reference CD" is so the head unit is useless to a thief. Eclipse also tracks the units they repair. More than once a stolen head unit was returned to them for service because it was not working. Upon verifying the head unit was stolen they can apprehend the thief as the person who returned the stolen head unit for service. I still wouldn't count on the thief to know that Eclipse does this though so I stick with a conventional fully detachable face. A new twist from Kenwood flips the face around when you turn off the power so the thief can't see the head unit. I think it would work even better if the face then went back into the head unit, giving the appearance that the unit is a detachable face head unit with its face removed.
Pre-amp outputs: These are must for any serious head unit. These outputs allow you to run an amplifier directly without need for any conversion. This is the cleanest output of the head unit. Some units have multiple outputs and sometimes ones that are crossed over. Look for the amount and type that you need for your system but keep in mind future expansion. One is sufficient but having two allow you fade, or adjust the levels of multiple amplifiers right from the head unit. Some head units now offer 4 volt outputs instead of the usual 1-2 volts. This can be very beneficial since cars have a lot of electrical noise in them. The 4 volt output is less susceptible to noise, however, you must be certain that the amplifier or crossover being connected to the output can handle 4 volts or you will not be able to use the extra voltage. If your head unit does not have pre-amp level (RCA type) outputs you can buy an adapter which will convert your speaker level outputs to line level. They range in price from $12 on up but since I have not used them I do not know how much difference there is among them. Another option is to use an amplifier that accepts speaker level signals directly but those are not as easy to find.
Other features: There are many other minor differences in features between head units. Choose the one that appeals to you most. Switch able illumination is nice if you want the head unit's display to match the other instrumentation in your car. Dolby Noise reduction and full logic tape controls are nice as well. Finally, a remote control can be useful or can be a waste depending on whether you use it. A remote control mounted in the steering wheel can be very convenient though. Some CD heads come with a buffer to minimize effects from bumps. This can be useful but in my experience if you mount the head unit securely it will not skip much anyway and using the anti-skip buffer can have a slight negative effect on sound quality because of the way the buffer is implemented.
If you wanna a get a great Car DVD player with good function, proper price and great service, come to check Eonon website, all about Car DVD player, Car Monitor and GPS: www.eonon.com. Good luck!
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